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Let the wood age
Let the wood age

Video: Let the wood age

Отличия серверных жестких дисков от десктопных
Video: Woodturning - Hawthorn Log 2023, January

Old wooden furniture looks nobler and more robust. No wonder antique furniture is so popular. The vintage look in particular makes new furniture look old = ", in a positive sense! We show you how you can let your wood age and present various patination techniques such as pickling, liming, lye and crackling.

Patina wood with stain

Stain is not just stain - and each one has its own effect on wood. We make the decision easy for you: with a list of their respective advantages and disadvantages.

Water stain

Dyes or pigments are diluted in boiling water, water-soluble.

Advantage: Particularly suitable for light, densely grained wood, easy to apply, clear colors in many variations, cheap.

Disadvantage: Allows the wood to swell - wood must be moistened and sanded before staining, the surface must be free of grease, is drawn into porous soft wood irregularly. Seal with shellac or oil before waxing.

Oil stain

Pigments in oil or synthetic resin, solvent: turpentine substitute.

Advantage: Ideal for soft wood, easy to apply, more transparent than water stain, results in a uniform, little sinking color.

Disadvantage: Must dry for one night.

Spirit stain

Colorants in shellac solution, diluted with spirit, solvent.

Advantage: Ideal for oily, fine-grained wood, deeply absorbed. Two or three pale layers give a better result than a glowing or dark layer.

Disadvantage: dries so quickly that even application is difficult. Wood can swell.

Varnish stain

Mixture of oil stain and hard-drying oil varnish, solvent: turpentine substitute.

Advantage: Cheap, easily available, quick to process.

Disadvantage: Opaque color: unfavorable with beautiful wood grain, not very durable, difficult to remove.

Wax stain

Melt artist oil paints and beeswax or paraffin wax in a water bath, cool to a soft paste - a practical replacement for this stain: shoe polish. Solvent: turpentine substitute.

Advantage: Transparent, has a nice wax shimmer after polishing, easy to apply, makes alt = " appear.

Disadvantage: painstakingly polishing, even more difficult to remove, cannot be covered with another top coat.

The color of old wooden furniture is usually darker and richer than that of freshly sawn wood. By pickling, the new pieces of furniture can be given an apparently age-related darkening. For this you need the following:

· Sandpaper

Protective gloves


· Absorbent bale of material, brush or sponge

· Fine brush

· Waste wood

· Shellac sealer for end grain surfaces

At the beginning, the wood that has to age has to be freed from grease and dirt residues. Then you can carefully roughen the surface with sandpaper and sweep away the dust.

Try the stain on a waste wood first to achieve the desired color. You can apply the stain with bales of fabric, a brush or a sponge. It is important that you always paint in the direction of the fibers, leave the stain on for a short time and wipe them in the direction of the fibers before drying. You can repair left out areas with a fine brush.

You should seal large areas and end grain areas before staining so that the stain cannot penetrate the wood fibers. Then you can apply the shellac sealer very thinly, and after drying, sand it carefully again with sandpaper. So you have a piece of vintage furniture in no time!

Caution: You should not apply chemical stains to sealed wooden surfaces

Glass and sandblasting age the wood optically

Wooden furniture can be wonderfully cleaned and roughened with a sandblaster. The wood is "washed out".

The hard annual rings then emerge more strongly, the soft ones are blown out. Furniture looks more plastic and rustic after the treatment.

Small particles of sand or glass are filled into the blower container and thrown onto the wooden surface using compressed air. Depending on the material, one speaks of sand, glass bead or glass grain blasting.

Pressure can be used to control whether wooden surfaces are easily or heavily washed out.

If you blast a piece of furniture under strong pressure, it looks like brushed afterwards - with the difference that no wood fibers protrude.

Depending on the intended effect and type of wood, furniture is sandblasted with sand or glass. Specialists sandblast the door from spruce, they treat the oak table with glass beads: the tannic acid in the oak wood could react with oxides in the grains of sand, the wood would get bluish stains.

Sand or glass blasting is an environmentally friendly alternative to stripping. If you let a lacquered farmer's cabinet shine properly, lacquer and sand or glass particles are caught in a sack and disposed of.

Sandblasted doors or furniture can be used and used untreated or:

• Sand with sandpaper

• sand and coat with clear varnish

• grow and polish with fine steel silk

Companies that take on blasting work can be found in the business directory under the keyword sandblasting. Some companies rent sandblowers. We recommend that you only blast small and insensitive parts yourself. For larger areas, it is worth asking about a company. Specialists work and dispose of cheaper.

Mit patiniertem Holz bekommt man einen schönen Vintage-Look hin
Mit patiniertem Holz bekommt man einen schönen Vintage-Look hin

Patinated wood should be sealed with clear varnish, so the treated surface stays smooth for a long time.

Photo: iStock / ChuckSchugPhotography

Lime vintage look

If you want to emphasize the grain of the wood, then liming is a good option. With this technique, pore filling porridge is rubbed into the wood spores, which strongly emphasizes the grain.

Oak wood is suitable because of its large pores. Other coarse-grained and large-pored types of wood such as ash and elm can also be limed.

The pore filling porridge can be made from wax and white pigments - it is also available as a finished product in a can. This pore filler contains desiccants that speed up the procedure.


Water stain

Shellac primer

Pore ​​filling mass (finished product)

Dyes and pigments

Wax or shellac polish



Wire brush


coarse linen and soft cloth

Preparatory work:

Remove all fittings and metal parts.

Clean the wood surface: sand with 240-grit sandpaper until it is free of dirt and grease.

Open pores: Use a wire brush to brush the surface vigorously and evenly in the direction of the fibers so that the pore filling compound can penetrate well.

The wood can be stained: stain in the desired color - but not with solvent stain, as this can stain. Let dry.

Seal the stained area with shellac primer to protect the stain: the filling compound is rubbed into the pores later and would attack unsealed stain.

Let the shellac coating dry overnight - it must be completely hardened before the pore filling compound is applied.

Smooth the surface with sanding fleece or fine 320-grit sandpaper

Color the pore filler:

Pour the mixture into a flat container, mix with the paint. Do not color too dark, pastel shades are popular.

Since it is difficult to hit a shade exactly a second time, color it with sufficient mass.

Apply pore filling compound:

Rub the dyed mass with coarse linen into the pores across the wood fiber - not in the direction of the fiber, as this will not completely fill the pores. Use filling compound evenly and sparingly.

As long as the pore filling compound is still damp, carefully wipe off excess - with the linen cloth across the fiber. Finally rub again in the direction of the fibers to blur traces.

Allow pore mass to dry overnight

The next day, rub the limed surface with a soft cloth.

The surface grows (oak) or thinly coated with a light or transparent shellac polish to protect the colored pores.

Apply carefully so that the pore filling compound is not rubbed out again.

Bevor man Holz patiniert, muss man es gut vorbehandeln
Bevor man Holz patiniert, muss man es gut vorbehandeln

A good pre- and post-treatment is essential when patinating wood.

Photo: iStock / Halfpoint

Crackling: How to create crack patterns

So-called tear lacquer is used to create crack patterns with a vintage look. It imitates the cracks of an old varnish coating. You spread the tear lacquer on a lacquer surface. The layers of paint dry at different speeds, so that hairline cracks occur due to the differences in tension. The background color shimmers through and gives new furniture an antique effect.

A crackle surface works better on smaller parts such as mirror frames or small pieces of furniture than on large areas - the tear varnish must be applied more saturated and wet on these.

Important: Even on large areas, the crack pattern should be at most 50 mm wide. If the cracks are wider, the paint surface peels off.


Wood residue

Turpentine substitute

Flat brush

Oil paint

Tear varnish

Wax polish

colored wax or pigments

soft cloth

Preparatory work:

First try the whole procedure on a piece of wood.

Clean furniture or wooden accessories with white spirit.

Apply the base coat of oil varnish with the flat brush so that no brush marks are visible. If the surface is porous, repeat the painting.

Apply tear varnish:

When the varnish is sticky and dry, apply the varnish generously and let it run - do not spread, the cracking starts immediately.

The size of the resulting mesh pattern depends on how thick the varnish is applied and how high the temperature is: at 20 degrees, finer cracks form than near the heating at 30 degrees.

While the tear varnish dries, it forms the net pattern that looks old. If the paint is dry, the effect can be enhanced by:

• wax polish rubs into the cracks, • the cracks with pigments or colored wax

fills (in a contrasting color or a strong

Complementary color to the background color).

Let the surface dry and polish with a cloth.

Patina wood with lye

Do you want your wooden furniture to exude a charm of the old that evokes memories? How about a treatment with caustic soda? That's how it works:

Sodium is stored in large quantities in the earth's surface, a soft, silver-white, shiny mass. If you dissolve it in water, caustic soda, a caustic liquid, is created. When lyeing wood in caustic soda, the pores in the soft, light annual rings of early wood contract, the harder, dark annual rings appear more. The wooden surface becomes plastic like a relief.

Treating the wooden surface with lye underlines the originality of the material. The wood color tone becomes a little darker overall - it gives the piece of furniture the charm of the old, makes it look venerable and solid.

Working with caustic soda, also called caustic soda, should be left to specialist companies. They have modern facilities, know the necessary amounts of lye and can dispose of residues in an environmentally friendly manner. Specialist companies can be found in the business directory under the keywords leaching or stripping.

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