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Refurbish concrete external stairs
Refurbish concrete external stairs

Video: Refurbish concrete external stairs

Отличия серверных жестких дисков от десктопных
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Refurbishing concrete external stairs and repairing stone steps requires no craftsman. Do it yourself! Learn how to straighten crumbling edges and edges and protect stairs from further damage here.

Touch up stairs - but why?

Not only do crumbling edges look unsightly, the cracks in the masonry are also dangerous. In addition, they feed moisture into the component, mosses and algae get stuck and frost then blows off further material, a true vicious circle. It is therefore advisable to remove the stumbling points and to renovate the external stairs.

Touch up stairs - but how?

It takes some practice to remove the unsightly and unsafe cracks, but it is not always necessary to consult an expert. How you can repair your stairs yourself in just a few steps is shown in our video above.

Step 1: clean the surface

Use a steel brush to scrub away dirt and moss, efflorescence, lime and cement glue. Then sharpen fragile material with a hammer and chisel and straighten the edges - this is best done with a power cutter. The edges must not run flat so that the subsequent repair layer does not become too thin. Finally, dust everything off.

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Step 1

Photo: Das Haus / Jürgen Kirchner

Step 2: select material

Build formwork for large areas of damage. Saw a planed board appropriately, coat it with acid-free, water-soluble formwork oil and wedge it with heavy stones so that it clings closely to the riser.

If moisture rises from the subsurface into the concrete stairs, only cement mortar will adhere permanently. Plastic-hardened mortar or epoxy resin mortar also hold on dry concrete. A moisture test provides clarity for the choice of mortar: Transparent film made of polyethylene, at least 0.5 millimeters thick and about half a square meter in size, is glued to the stair landing - and only on the edge of the film. A commercially available, elastic sealing compound is suitable for this. If the concrete under the film turns dark after three to four days of testing or if condensation forms under the film, the concrete draws moisture from the substrate. Concrete that does not darken is dry.

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step 2

Photo: Das Haus / Jürgen Kirchner

Step 3: cement mortar

The inexpensive, easy-to-use mortar shrinks when it dries. It should only be used in thicknesses over five millimeters. Wet the damaged areas with a damp, damp surface and brush in the viscous adhesive slurry - it connects the substrate and mortar. Let it tighten a little and then apply the mortar wet-on-wet.

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step 3

Photo: Das Haus / Jürgen Kirchner

Step 4: plastic mortar

Fast hardening and mechanically highly resilient mortar and epoxy resin mortar are suitable for thin layers under five millimeters and for modeling edges. Prime the concrete with adhesive emulsion before applying the expensive mortar. However, it cannot be processed at all temperatures. The minimum is around plus five degrees Celsius - so read the processing instructions carefully.

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Step 4

Photo: Das Haus / Jürgen Kirchner

Step 5: arm damage

Stainless steel screws support mortar when deep damaged areas have to be added. Pre-drill diagonally downwards - so deep that the screws protrude at least one centimeter from the concrete and are just as thickly covered by the mortar. Better drill the holes a bit larger so that there is no explosive effect. Hole too large: Insert screws in mortar. Wire, stretched from screw to screw, additionally reinforces the mortar. Metal profiles protect the new edges, which are at risk of impact. Process the concrete so that the protective profiles are flush. Fasten with screws - drill the dowel holes correctly so that they do not break out.

Plastic edge profiles are a non-slip and easy to attach alternative to metal. Groove edges with the cut-off machine and glue profiles into the grooves. Plastic strips, which are glued into the milled grooves on the step, provide additional slip resistance. Anyone who now sinks his doormat flush into the concrete will eliminate the last stumbling block. Draw the outline for the deepening on the top step and cut in with a grinder. Deepen the surface with a hammer drill and chisel. If you do not have a hammer drill, you can borrow it from the hardware store. Finally, sand the square smooth.

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Step 5

Photo: Das Haus / Jürgen Kirchner

Step 6: apply protective skin

Use a belt sander to smooth dry repair areas. Coat the surface with liquid plastic. In a day or two you can step onto the stairs and insert the step mat.

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Step 6

Photo: Das Haus / Jürgen Kirchner

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