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Laying parquet: you have to take this into account
Laying parquet: you have to take this into account
Video: Laying parquet: you have to take this into account
Video: How to Install Herringbone Oak Parquet Floor 2023, February
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Laying parquet is not as difficult as some might initially think. In addition, a wooden floor looks elegant, warm and soft. If you want to save, you are well served with finished parquet or click parquet.

Table of contents Table of contents Laying parquet: How it works

  • Better to lay finished parquet or solid parquet?
  • Laying finished parquet: the different delivery forms
  • Laying parquet: the costs
  • Laying parquet: the subfloor
  • Lay parquet: how it works
  • Lay parquet around pipes and edges
  • Interesting facts about parquet laying

Table of contents Table of contents Laying parquet: How it works

  • Better to lay finished parquet or solid parquet?
  • Laying finished parquet: the different delivery forms
  • Laying parquet: the costs
  • Laying parquet: the subfloor
  • Lay parquet: how it works
  • Lay parquet around pipes and edges
  • Interesting facts about parquet laying

Better to lay finished parquet or solid parquet?

Finished parquet flooring elements are also called click parquet because they can be easily pushed together with tongue and groove. The parquet elements are very dimensionally stable and available in various shapes and sizes - as strip parquet panels and also as elongated formats up to the size of normal wooden planks. Finished parquet consists of at least two layers that are glued at right angles. On top is a layer of hardwood that has already been sanded and sealed - a few millimeters thick - you can enter it immediately after laying the parquet. Tongue and groove all round simplify the assembly of the finished parquet. Important: For sawing, turn the bottom up so that the cut edge does not fray. Another advantage of the finished parquet: It is relatively thin and can therefore still be used even with a low installation height up to the door sill.

Solid parquet requires significantly more experience when laying. It usually consists of solid hardwood rods that are tongue and groove on the underside. After laying, due to manufacturing tolerances, there are usually very slight bumps in the area between the individual bars, which have to be adjusted by grinding. Before walking on, a seal as a varnish or oil must also be applied. Solid parquet also requires more installation height than prefabricated parquet. It is significantly more expensive, but also more durable. A solid parquet can be restored by sanding and sealing almost any number of times, while in the finished parquet the plywood backing often comes to light after the second sanding.

Laying finished parquet: the different delivery forms

When laying parquet, you have the choice between different formats: there are square boards (side length 200 to 650 millimeters) and elongated formats (length 1, 200 to 6, 000 millimeters, width 100 to 400 millimeters) with a thickness between about 10 to 26 millimeters. They can be added to many patterns. The quality is defined in standard DIN 280, part 5. There three grades describe the appearance (knots, color differences).

Laying parquet: the costs

Floorboards and baseboards are available for every budget - from the brand manufacturer to inexpensive products from the hardware store. The price depends on the thickness of the wear layer - i.e. the layer that really consists of solid wood. At least it is two and a half millimeters for the parquet. In the three-layer elements, it is usually three to four millimeters and in the two-layer bars four to five millimeters. Don't forget the cost of impact sound insulation and, if necessary, a PE film as a moisture barrier. You should also buy at least one extra plank so that you can use it when repairing parquet. Our table shows the costs you have to expect for parquet laying:

quality Living size Cost per square meter total cost
easy 75 m² 15 euro 1, 125 euros
medium 75 m² 40 euros 3, 000 euros
raised 75 m² 75 euros 5, 625 euros
Parkett
Parkett

High-quality parquet flooring, properly laid, ensures elegance and warmth in your own four walls.

Photo: epr / Bembé Parkett

Laying parquet: the subfloor

Before you install parquet, you should make sure that the floor is dry, clean and level. You should also have accustomed the parquet to room temperature two days beforehand. It is therefore best to store it where you want to lay it. The substrate usually needs three layers: screed, foil and impact sound insulation. The PE film protects the parquet against moisture penetrating upwards, for example from young concrete. The impact sound insulation can consist of flexible wood fiber boards, mats made of cork, foam or ribbed cardboard and minimizes walking noise. Screw old wooden planks tight and lay your click parquet floating on the insulation.

Lay parquet: how it works

Start by removing the longitudinal spring from the planks that are to be in the first row. The best way to do this is with a small table saw with a side stop. Depending on how the wall is made, you have to roughly adapt the board to the wall by planing and sawing. Important: Make sure that the plank is exactly at right angles to the other wall - this is especially important in old buildings, as the walls here are often not at right angles to each other. Place spacing wedges about ten millimeters thick between the planks and the wall on the front and long sides. The wood does not touch the wall, which is good for sound insulation and you also get an expansion joint. The wood needs this to be able to work.

Place the next plank on the free end and knock it lightly with a hammer and matchstick. You connect some types of parquet by hanging them together. Here you can avoid knocking or fixing. Other types are held together by glue. Make sure that excess glue is removed immediately.

Parkett verlegen
Parkett verlegen

Don't forget to tap each plank on the front too.

Photo: Haro

With the actual parquet laying, you always start in a corner. One problem that you have to face from row to row is the end piece - it has to be readjusted every time. If you notice that the parquet plank is a bit too long to lay, you have to shorten it. To do this, turn the plank over and lay it on the previous plank with the groove facing the wall. Now push the parquet board, including spacer wedges, against the wall and record the length with an angle and pencil. Shorten or saw the board only from the lower side. This eliminates the risk of scratching or otherwise damaging the top. Now you can sand the sawn edge a little more.

After you have brought the end piece to the correct length, place it with spacer wedges between the previous board and the wall and tighten the board. Then start the next row with the remainder of the last plank. This creates an offset and the picture is somewhat loosened up.

Tip: If you lay the parquet so that the longitudinal direction of the elements runs parallel to the incidence of light, you will beautify the overall picture.

Connect parquet boards

Click the second row of parquet boards lengthways into the first. It is best to do this at an angle of 25 degrees. The various elements snap into almost every system due to strong pressure on tongue and groove. If pressure alone is not enough, then help with a carpenter's hammer. You protect the edge of the board with a so-called beechwood (remnant).

Parkett verbinden
Parkett verbinden

Connect parquet by clicking the second row of planks in the first row at an angle of 25 degrees.

Photo: Haro

Lock the top edge

The locking of the head edges can be heard and felt. If it clicked when laying, then carefully slide the new plank over the last one, move it very close together and click the short sides of the head.

Fit the end row

Place the parquet boards congruently on the last row of planks. With a remnant you drive along the wall and transfer the course of the wall with a pencil. You still have to subtract the distance from the wall. Then cut the plank accordingly with the table saw or jigsaw.

Lay parquet around pipes and edges

In some places it is not so easy to lay parquet - for example around heating pipes. Here you have to remove a piece from the hall. To do this, place the plank exactly and draw in the pipe. Allow a margin of around one centimeter. Use a pot drill or jigsaw to roughly drill or saw the hole for the pipe. Roughly, because at the end a so-called rosette is placed as a cover around the pipe and over the hole - you cannot see how it was worked underneath. Then saw the parquet board from the drill hole to the wall side in a wedge shape, mount the board and glue the wedge back in. If you are installing skirting boards, put felt strips underneath. How to avoid sound bridges.

Interesting facts about parquet laying

Tongue and groove all round simplify assembly for the click parquet. Underfloor heating is no problem at all under the parquet flooring. It can be quickly installed on cement and liquid screed, even in cavities under the floor covering (for example under planks). Underfloor heating is suitable for all floor coverings from finished parquet to PVC and laminate to carpets. Ceramic tiles in particular heat up quickly and store the heat for a long time. Nice for allergy sufferers: Because underfloor heating emits most of its heat through radiation, little dust is whirled around the nose. The temperature is highest below, where it does not belong physiologically: Many owners of underfloor heating complain that the blood flow in their legs slows down and the veins widen.

Step by step: lay parquet

Dämmunterlage verlegen
Dämmunterlage verlegen

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10 Show all Lay parquet: step by step

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1. Roll out the impact sound insulation. If the floor is slightly uneven, use a thick, heavy material. You can shorten the insulation with the cutter and connect the joints with a vapor-tight adhesive tape.

Photo: HARO

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2. In a corner of the room, start laying the elements with the spring side towards the wall; fix them with spacers or wedges.

Photo: HARO

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3. Place the next element at the head end of the board.

Photo: HARO

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4. Click the element with light pressure.

Photo: HARO

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5. Cut the last element of the first row; allow for an expansion distance of 10 to 15 millimeters from the wall. Now all you have to do is create and click.

Photo: HARO

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6. Pay attention to an exact escape.

Photo: HARO

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7. You can also slide the elements apart again: To unclip, simply move the head sides in parallel. With the remainder of the first row you start in the next row - this way you reduce the waste. Pay attention to a frontal offset of at least 50 centimeters.

Photo: HARO

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8. With slight pressure, turn the elements lengthways into the connection; if necessary, tap the matchstick lightly.

Photo: HARO

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9. Push the next element in until it is flush and snaps into place with slight pressure.

Photo: HARO

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10. You lay the finished parquet throughout the room. You usually have to saw the elements of the last row lengthways. Important: Always take an expansion distance of 10 to 15 millimeters into account when measuring.

Photo: HARO

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Dämmunterlage verlegen
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